Hi All

Well we are back from Nepal safe and sound. We are staying a few days out in the country just North West of Mumbai at Phil's Dad's coconut plantation.

Saturday, February 23rd, got up in Varnassi and caught our flight to Kathmandu. We were a little worried since just a few days before 148 police and security people were killed in a shootout by the Maoists. The attack occured in the west of the country where we were not going to be. Reports that the military and police were chasing alot of them down made us think it was safe enough for where we were going to be. We felt even better about going when we turned up at the airport and there were about 20 other whiteys also going.

When we arrived, to our surprise just as in Varnassi, most of the streets were deserted. Seems the Maoists were threatening some attacks that day and so there were few vehicles on the streets. Also it was the equivalet of Sunday there and so most shops were closed anyways. It was weird though. The streets were filled with bikes. We went for a long walk to finally find a place open to eat.

The next day we went for a day tour of the usual stuff such as temples, Bazaars and the older narrow streeted part of the city. We came across a temple with lots of exotic art carvings on them, which must have helped in the old days because the monkeys that were hanging out near them were pretty frisky. That afternoon we went to the Monkey Temple, that didn't have many monkeys around at all. Back in the day the Hippies used to hang out here and downtown on a street name Freak street. Our guide told us that back in 1976 the government packed them all up in 80 buses and shipped them off to India and Tibet. Damn deadbeat hippies.
Later we found the cheapest, yet slowest ecafe yet. It worked out to $0.60/ hour, but it took me that long to login and read two messages.

The next day we got up early to try and get a flight around Everest but it was raining so the flight was cancelled. Spent the day drive up a mountain side for a view of the city, and walked a fair bit back down the mountain along local pathways. Our only "trek". The day before, Phil found that there was a casino in the bottom of our hotel. So later that night we went down to check it out.
Gambling is illegal in Nepal except for foreigners. Funny, I was the only white guy in the casino. It was the most happening place in town. Even got to see some traditional Napalese dances on stage. We spent 3 hours there. I lost $15 and had 5 free beers. Phil lost $75, but did have 5 free rum and cokes.

Next morning we got up and got a car ride to Polkhara, 200 Kms West of Kathmandu. It took 6 hours. Polkhara is a nice tourist town beside a lake in a big valley in the foothills. It is the jump point for a lot of trekking in the area and had alot of shops where you could rent or buy equipement. That night we stayed up late at the Maya pub. They had a viewing of Oceans Eleven in the bar. Someone had taken a video camera into a theatre and taped the movie It was of a real bad quality, but it was pretty funny to see at the end of the tape everyones heads pop up as the movie finished. We walked back to the hotel at 10:30. The streets were deserted. We came across a bunch of guys with guns
but upon closer inspection realized they were the army. A couple of times a white jeep drove by with army guys checking us out. Made it to the hotel just as the gatekeeper was locking up. Next day did some touring as usual, caves, waterfalls and the local University and a Butterfly collection.

Thursday we got up for the long drive back. This time back though we went through four military checkpoints, one of which took 1.5 hours to get past. The meant it took 7.5 hours to travel 200Km our slowest yet, but thankfully this was our last long drive. About 50Km outside of Kathmandu we noticed a bus down on the rocks in the river bed. Our driver stopped and asked what happened. It seems the bus went over the day before killing 9 of the people on the bus. I was amazed that everyone wasn't killed as it was a 100 foot drop down.

Friday, March 1st we got up early and went to the airport in hopes of our getting an Everest flight in. The morning started off with the airport fogged in, but, it finally cleared up. Once we got out to the plane, which was a twin prop with 18 seats, we were in for a surprise. Seems a couple were coming along on the flight and were going to get married just as we flew by Everest. The newspaper dude said this was a first for any couple in Nepal. So there we were 20 minutes later 25,000 ft up, near Everest and a
wedding going on in the plane. Needles to say it was cramped. We were in some of the pictures and also took some. Got blessed, given garlands and had some treats. The newspaper guy took our names and apparently our names were to be in the paper the next day. Cool.

After that flight we returned to the hotel, got our stuff and went back to the airport. We then finally caught
the flight from Kathmandu to Mumbai, but not before a big debacle with the exit fee and a problem with overweight
luggage at the airport. Since the local bank machine, by our hotel, was broken and they didn't take visa at the airport, anywheres, it was a big hassle to finally get on the airplane.

As we were flying in to Mumbai I noticed the main highways seemed empty except for a few cars. Strange I thought, what could this be all about?

Martin

PS. I was able to use an ATM in Kathmandu just down the road
from our hotel. It sure is sweet to see your bank
account balance converted into Nepal Rupees.